France
Monday, September 10 through September 26, 2018
Day 1 – Monday, September 10
I’m off again to France – the third year in a row that I’ve been invited to the Carrefour Européen du Patchwork Exhibition in the Alsace. I was a featured (solo) artist in 2016, and in 2017 I taught the week-long Séminar Post Carrefour workshop. This time I'll be rejoining my 2017 students in a combined student-teacher exhibition.
As with my other trips, I’m leaving my husband (Allan) and doggie (Mr. Darcy) back in Colorado, but I’m being ably accompanied by Big Red, my ever faithful, waterproof, and super secure and sturdy quilt carrying mega suitcase.
I just noticed that in the photo below I’m wearing the same shirt that I wore when flying to Luxembourg back in May. Hmmm. At least it was washed.
This should be a fabulous trip. First, my students at last year’s Post-Carrefour Seminar weren’t able to actually see my quilts “in the flesh” to fully see and understand how and why I change and shift construction techniques based on a quilt’s composition and needs (my quilts were being shown in Turin at the time). Photos are nice, but they never do the actual quilts justice – although Allan has recently built a new photo studio just for photographing quilts (see photo below) where he’s continually experimenting with trying to figure out how to best use lighting and post-processing to really capture both my quilts' colors and textures.
Second, I’m bringing (three) new quilts, completed in the last two years, that I’ll be hanging along side those of my students; visitors who saw my solo exhibition two years ago will be treated to completely new pieces – Annaghmare Court Tomb, Cathedral Arch at Glendalough, and Bonamargy Friary.
Third, having our own gallery dedicated to last year's Séminar Post-Carrefour – right in the middle of the main village of Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines (in the Church of La Madeleine) – will ensure the largest possible viewership. Visitors will be amazed by the exceptional quality of the many workshop-derived quilts.
Seeing my many quilting friends and students at the Carrefour Exhibition will also be a delight. And visiting what I hope will be my new stone friends at Carnac during Week Two should prove equally wonderful.
Day 2 – Tuesday, September 11
Today I basically just travelled and caught jet-lagged catnaps whenever possible; I didn’t really even think about photos. Sorry. I made it to Paris, boarded the correct TGV to Strasbourg, and successfully made my transfer to a local train that took me to the (very) small town of Selestat (between Strasbourg and Colmar). There I was met by the owner of the apartment that I’m renting, who kindly drove me up to the village of Sainte-Croix-aux-Mines (where the apartment is located). Sainte-Croix-aux-Mines is located just a couple of kilometers from Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines, and is the second of the three adjacent villages that make up the overall Carrefour Exhibition.
I cleaned up and we went out to a lovely dinner (we kind of lucked out – most restaurants in the area are closed on Tuesdays). Oh, did I mention that neither she nor I spoke the other’s language? The whole afternoon and evening (from the rail station onward) we communicated exclusively via Google Translate, hand gestures, funny faces, smiles, frowns, eye rolls, laughter, etc., and … we had a thoroughly enjoyable time! Until we got to the restaurant, which (sort of) had a “no phones” policy. We still used them – using no-noise text-based translations instead of voice – but we had to be pretty stealthy. We nevertheless prevailed, and continued to enjoy the evening. I also had a great first meal – fresh pumpkin (no-cream) soup and a lovely big salad! Fresh veggies – a real treat.
Today is also my husband’s birthday. I (always) wish we were together, and I just want to thank him and give him a shout out for being the great quilting team partner that he is – creating and managing this web site and blog; researching and writing all my many letters of introduction, proposals, workshop descriptions, marketing write-ups, and contracts; doing all my photography; ensuring coordinated trip logistics (both my own travel and the sending ahead of needed supplies); creating all my marketing giveaways, gift card sets, and the like; etc. I couldn’t do it without him.
Day 3 – Wednesday, September 12
Today (or at least through lunch) was dedicated to setting up our exhibit in the old church (Église de la Madeleine) right on the main street going through Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines. I’m so proud of everyone for their work – and for actually getting them finished! Most of the student quilts are fairly small, but all are beautiful. The participating students are super excited, and we’ll have plenty of folks to work the exhibit so everyone will have the opportunity to visit some of the other galleries and villages (which is a real luxury; normally at these types of shows you simply have no time for being a “visitor”), though I’m personally planning to be at the church pretty much full time.
My jet lag wasn’t too bad today. Tomorrow, though – the second full day after arriving – is typically the worst; I’ll try not to wake up tonight at 2:30 am, like last night, and call and chat with my husband. But with the Exhibition opening in the morning, hopefully I’ll be too busy tomorrow to totally crater (but when I do finally wear out, it'll probably be epic).
After set-up several of us headed over to Ribeauville, one of the oldest and most picturesque Alsacian medieval towns (and which is located on the Wine Route). I shared a welcome ice cream with the town’s Fiddler statue. Then back to Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines for a nice outdoor dinner with some of my students (good weather today, stormy and colder tomorrow and Friday, and then warm and clear again for the weekend).
I was also able to see several good friends today, including Danny Amazonas (Taiwan) and Marty Ornish (San Diego; see photo below). Both are fabulous quilters, and both are 2018 Carrefour Featured Artists. I’m looking forward to seeing more friends tomorrow!
Day 4 – Thursday, September 13
The Exhibition opened today to good weather and large crowds. The church was busy all day; visitors loved seeing both my and my student’s quilts side-by-side (and seeing my student's continued enthusiasm for their work). The exhibit received, in general, the most robust and excellent feedback and positive interest possible.
I was so busy that I again didn’t really take much of a break for photos (the lighting in the church also produced a lot of photography-unfriendly glare, as exemplified by the Bonamargy Friary photo below). I basically worked the exhibit all day; had lots of visitors who had seen my quilts in previous shows – primarily Carrefour (2016), Luxembourg (2018), and Quiltfestival Noord Groningen (The Netherlands, 2018) – and wanted to see my new work; and sold tons of my Quilt Greeting Cards and Postcards (the availability and sale of which is quite common – even expected and anticipated – in the EU; quite different than in the US). And, thankfully, jet lag wasn't ever really a problem.
Friends that dropped by today included Marjan Ruitenberg, the Coordinator of this year’s Quiltfestival Noord Groningen (The Netherlands); she is wonderful, and her two daughters went well beyond the call of duty and happily drove me all around to see the sights. I was also able to briefly visit with my good friends Rosa Rojas and Olga Gonzales (Girona, 2012, and of Apliquick). Finally, three different individuals separately introduced themselves as having followed my career ever since my original TheQuiltShow.com video (filmed back in 2007); these were very moving connections and conversations.
Day 5 – Friday, September 14
The show continues to be remarkably crowded. Thursday (yesterday) was supposed to be the busiest, but today was equally crowded (or even more so). Even the buses – see the photo below of visitors waiting at a bus stop – that shuttled visitors between the villages were packed (luckily, our weather held, and the weekend is supposed to be lovely). Organizers are expecting similar crowds the next two days (which is very unusual for Europe; usually the weekend sees significantly fewer visitors). The number of visitors (though not Houston-like) is quite extraordinary; and, at least judging by those visiting our gallery, quite enthusiastic. Quilting is alive and well in Europe!
Several classes of young (school-age) students were brought in today to visit and sketch my Bonamargy Friary quilt. Very cool. Also, three more of my 2017 students arrived today, joining the four that have already been working the exhibit the last two days; more will be arriving tomorrow (we’re having a reunion dinner and celebration tomorrow night).
There was a pastries and dessert stand (plus sandwiches) outside the church today; I was able to hold off on the pastries – saving up my calories for Kouign-amanns next week in Brittany! But it was nice being able to have a real sandwich midday.
I was able to sneak out and briefly visit a couple of exhibits that I was particularly interested in. I was blown away by the Kenyan quilts (and quilters) – incredibly creative and “artsy” pieces combining appliquéd African animals (using African fabrics) superimposed over traditional patchwork, all done just beautifully (see photos below). Also some lovely landscapes.
I was also really intrigued by the Mexican exhibit. They don’t have a real history of patchwork, so they’re using their traditional vibrant colors so common to their crafts, and then uniquely mixing it with “traditional” patchwork. Very bright, colorful, lovely, and culturally distinct quilts (see photo below). I love it.
Finally, I was able to take a quick peak at a mixed media exhibit – gorgeous work (photos below). The bottom right photo is of a "quilt" made from pull tops; the bottom left photo is of a work by Isabelle Wiessler, a very talented artist who also displayed earlier this year in Luxembourg.
Day 6 – Saturday, September 15
Today was indeed quieter; I nevertheless stayed at the exhibit all day to make sure that I could meet all who wanted to come by (I missed a few valued folks yesterday when I visited the Kenyan and Mexican exhibits). A number of friends, and other folks that I’m just now getting to know better, came by. Lots of quieter – and very pleasant – conversations and visiting. Photos below include my friend (and wonderful quilter) from Spain, Olga Gonzales (top right), my friend (and future student) Annekatrin – who lives in Luxembourg, and who generously showed me around during my May exhibition – lower center), and two of my 2017 (French) students, Sandrine (lower right) and Coralie (who traveled all the way from her home in Strasbourg to Luxembourg during my May exhibition to get feedback on her quilt! – lower left).
I also had multiple unsolicited requests by “future students” who couldn’t attend last year’s Carrefour masterclass to “please do it again”. Twist my arm!
Then it was a fun dinner with last year’s students (at least those who were able to attend this year's show). There was only a limited, very meaty menu selection, so I had sauerkraut, boiled potatoes, and pork and ham hocks – "hold the pork and ham". It reminded me of Jack Nicholson’s “hold the chicken” dialogue in the movie Five Easy Pieces (except that I was very polite). Only three of last year’s nineteen students weren’t able to make this year’s festivities – they’re an exceptional, surprisingly tight group.
The exhibition ends tomorrow afternoon; we’ll be packing things up immediately afterwards, and then my 2017 students Chantal, Caroline, and I will head out towards Brittany (along with my suitcase companion, Big Red, of course). We’re not quite sure how far we’ll get before stopping for the night.
Day 7 – Sunday, September 16
The show ended this afternoon. Today was definitely slower, although our gallery always seemed to consistently draw more people than most. Despite the reduced traffic, my students – below find a photo of (left to right) Regime, Claude, and Denise – continued to ably staff the exhibit, freeing me to talk to folks viewing the quilts. As in previous years, it was a wonderful show – I met tons of folks, and there was significant interest in the possibility of my both exhibiting and teaching in multiple additional locations (worldwide). Which is great – I adore teaching, and exhibiting gives me the visibility and contacts to make new teaching opportunities happen. Plus, I love sharing my quilts as widely as possible, giving people the chance to perhaps “hear” – and maybe even feel – the stories of “my” ancient stones. In this show, people seemed to be particularly drawn to my newest quilt, Bonamargy Friary; one woman described it as a “Stairway to Heaven”.
When we shut down, we immediately packed up and headed out. We (the three of us, plus Big Red – which is a definite space hog) barely all fit into the car (a small VW Polo). We drove for about four hours, got a cute hotel, and tomorrow it’s another long drive – eight hours or so before we get to Chantal’s home in Brittany.
Day 8 – Monday, September 17
Well, it turned out more like 12 hours of driving today. We were basically on the road today from 8:00 am this morning until 8:00 pm this evening! I tend to think of France (and Europe, in general, sort of) as being kind of “smaller”, but driving for hour after hour certainly dispels that notion. Makes you appreciate the TGV. We stopped every couple hours to stretch, and were more than motivated to make it home since Chantal’s husband had homemade hot quiche waiting (I was primarily living off my morning’s granola – which I make at home and carry with me).
I have to say, though, that truck stops here are much nicer than those at home. Pretty boring and relatively flat countryside; in contrast, the (champagne) vineyards, and some of the smaller, older towns that we drove through, were fun to see. Crossing the Saint Nazaire Bridge meant that we had “officially” entered Brittany.
Chantal also told me about places in Brittany (that she’ll take me to) that serve extra-small Kouign-amanns served with ice cream. Ridiculous. Absurd. I’m ready.
Day 9 – Tuesday, September 18
I’m staying in Chantal's lovely home in the seaside town of Le Pouliguen. This morning we just hung out, sleeping in a bit (I never got a good night’s sleep at the show) and, in general, trying as best as possible to recuperate from the show and the long drive. In the early afternoon we took a nice walk along the beach, watched the breakers, and visited the local standing stone (yay). We then headed over to the very pleasant nearby seaside town of Le Croisic (officially listed by the French Tourist Bureau as being a “small town of character” – see photos). Better, not-so-hot weather – coastal fog in the early morning, which fully burns off by noon.
While in Le Croisic we went to a museum dedicated to the traditional local harvesting of sea salt; common to the area was the practice of local women carrying salt on special “head carriers” (see photo). We also visited a local church which exemplifies the custom – to honor the local fishermen – of hanging model boats from the ceiling (see photo).
We also visited the bakery where Kouign-amanns were invented! Baby Kouign-amanns are called Kouignettes, but they aren’t so baby’ish; they’re actually about 2 1/2 inches across (ours at home are about 3 to 4 inches across)! The regular Kouign-amanns (here in Brittany) are 8 to 9 inches across – huge. I bought an assortment box of eight of the smaller Kouignettes (see photo), each one a different (sweet) flavor. We shared bites at dinner (four of the Kouignettes tonight, and the other four tomorrow night). But only a small bite (or two) of each; I refuse to gain weight while traveling (or to use traveling as any sort of excuse to overindulge). They taste like butter perfected – buttery caramel, or buttery chocolate, or buttery raspberry, etc. Delicious. My expectations have been fully met! They have savory versions as well, which I obviously also need to try.
Day 10 – Wednesday, September 19
Chantal and I took the short walk into town this morning and then along the beach, and visited a very nice yarn store. Afterward we had a lovely homemade lunch then headed out for the afternoon to go stone hunting! We visited both a beautiful dolmen (the Riholo Dolmen) plus the standing stone (the Pierre Longue Menhir) next to the beach. Many more stones (plus Carnac) are on the calendar for tomorrow and Friday.
Today’s stones reminded me that when I was recently in South Korea – which also has a huge number of megalithic stones (who knew?) – everyone just laughed at the entire notion that people would actually name the stones.
We also visited the Devil’s Windmill, a (local, and gorgeous) 15th century granite windmill which, legend has it, was created when a poor peasant got the better of the Devil, getting the Devil to build the windmill in exchange for his soul, and then fooling the Devil at the last minute (click here for the full story).
I spent the evening talking with Chantal – who is also a quilting instructor – about things you can do to modify fabric “to make it uniquely yours” for subsequent use in your quilts (e.g., different painting techniques, gluing and painting Tyvek housewrap, etc.). We first, though, happily devoured the rest of the Kouignettes after yet another delightful homemade dinner (with a big salad, just like at home). Tomorrow we'll try to make it to the bakery to pick up some savory versions.
Day 11 – Thursday, September 20
This morning I walked into town (Chantal was otherwise occupied) and visited the local Farmer’s Market (see photo). Fun.
In the afternoon we visited the medieval walled town of Guérande. It was first populated in the 11th century, though it wasn’t until the 14th century, during the Wars of Succession, that it took the fortified form that we see today. The old town is entirely surrounded by walls and ramparts, and has not really changed since medieval times (except for the crêperies, ice cream and chocolate shops, etc.). Lots of narrow streets filled with arts and crafts galleries, and nooks and crannies to explore (parts of it look like Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley).
Guérande is also known for all its hand harvested sea salt (from local salt marshes) – naturally grey, unwashed, and unrefined (see photo of the front window of a salt shop).
We also stopped at another bakery (different from the one two days ago), where I found a Kouign-amann “super hero” t-shirt (see photo). Somewhat wierd. The wording on the front brags that their Kouign-amanns are one-half butter! Bretons apparently take “who makes the best” very seriously! I also discovered that the “large” Kouign-amanns are actually tins of smaller ones (see photo).
Tomorrow it’s off to Carnac and other nearby stones (including taking a morning boat ride to a nearby island that is supposed to be covered with megaliths). We’ll spend the night in a hotel to maximize our exploring time, getting back “home” Saturday evening.
Day 12 – Friday, September 21
Today we headed out early and first took a boat (about a fifteen minute ride – happily, the weather was good, and the sea was calm) to the small island of Gavninis to visit an ancient mound. It actually pre-dates New Grange in Ireland – the Gavrinis tomb is also known for its abundance of megalithic Neolithic art. It is, officially, a passage dolmen covered by a cairn; even I get confused. It was built at least 4000 years BC around 28 massive rock slabs, each of which is covered (inside) with wonderful engravings – lots of ancient Celtic designs (but no spirals), with lots of stone axe head-type shapes (ostensibly representative of “sky gods”). No photos of the interior were allowed.
We then circumnavigated a second small island where you aren’t allowed to land. It is notable for standing stones “marching” into the water, with lots more of other uncatalogued stones fully underwater (see photo). Climate change?
Once off the boat, we next headed to Locmariaquer (about 10 miles from Carnac), where the remains of the world’s tallest known (ex) standing stone – the Grand Menhir Brisé – are found. It was originally up to 20+ meters high, 350 tons in total weight, and was broken into four major pieces when tumbled by an earthquake (at least that’s the theory). It is believed that the Grand Menhir Brisé was once an end stone in a row of nineteen giant menhirs.
See the photo below which includes, for scale, a (tiny) man standing next to one of the four remnants. The size of the overall menhir (standing stone) is mind-blowing.
The nineteen menhirs were also damaged by the same earthquake that (likely) brought down the Grand Menhir Brisé, and were subsequently scavenged to help build many of the other structures located nearby, including another mound (with photos of the interior allowed; see below for a photo of the passageway going back out).
We’re spending the night in the town of Carnac. Dolmens are all over the place. Tomorrow the focus will be on visiting (a few of) the thousands of standing stones ("alignments") at this amazing site.
I connect with these stones almost as much as I do with the stones in Ireland.
I also connect with the food! Crepes are big here; I had mushroom crepes for lunch (the photo below is of a different créperie, at night, in Carnac, but I liked the photo), and we had a lovely prix fixe dinner in Carnac – three different fish pâtés, a cod (light) fricasse over rice, and a wonderful lemon dessert. The restaurant was just eleven two-person tables (see photo) that completely filled up the moment after we were seated. Very french, and very very good.
Day 13 – Saturday, September 22
Carnac was beyond my expectations. Mind boggling. Just being in field after field of rows ("alignments") of standing stones, you feel the energy. You kind of get an idea from photos, but its just so powerful being in the middle of them. And so many – thousands – you could spend a week here and not see them all. In the alignments the stones start off small (i.e., low to the ground) and then become taller and taller as you go along (or vise versa if traveling the other direction).
Happily, it’s already off-season, so there were very few other visitors (it has the apparently well-earned reputation – during the summer – of having huge and swarming crowds). We also, though, had “off-season” rain, so no sun or shadows in our photos.
In addition to all the standing stones, there are also lots of dolmens. Everywhere. They’re more passage-like here than in Ireland. And also unlike Ireland, where dolmens are most always found alone (“lonely sentinals”), here lots of dolmens can be found side-by-side. The photo below (middle right) – we saw just a single small sign off to the side of the road, and so pulled over, parked, and walked about 300 meters – is of a simply gorgeous series of three linked (almost intertwined) perfect dolmens. Amazing. Next to the parking lot, we also noticed three little gnomes hiding in an adjacent overgrown garden (see photo). Seemed quite appropriate.
We also pulled off the road at another sign and “discovered” an underground dolmen with completely intact (and beautiful) etchings throughout the interior. Wonderful. Tingles.
Back in Carnac (the town) we also took a brief break from the rain and visited a church that exemplifies the Breton use of painted scenes on wooden church ceilings (see photo). Lovely.
Today was my last full day with Chantal; tomorrow she and her husband, Andre, drive me to Nantes (an hour or so away) where Big Red and I grab the TGV to Paris. We got back to Chantal's this evening in time to go out to dinner; I had a big bowl of local mussels plus a nice salad. And then, OMG, my dessert was like a molten lava cake, but filled with hot flowing caramel instead of chocolate (and served with caramel ice cream). A great way to celebrate their incredible hospitality.
Day 14 – Sunday, September 23
Today was basically another travel day (unfortunately, no photos) – from Le Pouliguen on the Brittany coast to Nantes (by car) to Paris (via TGV). Rainy and windy; because of the rain most every taxi in Paris was pre-booked, though Big Red and I luckily snagged a “stray” taxi at the Gare Montparnasse (the main train station in south Paris), so I had no problem getting to the hotel – figuring out and navigating the metro with a fifty pound suitcase would not have been fun. For safety reasons, I’m reluctant to use Uber, or similar variants.
I got to the hotel (on the medieval Île de la Cité – across from the Notre Dame Cathedral) late afternoon (a typical cute little Parisian room – emphasis on little, but perfectly comfortable) and because of the rain I pretty much just spent the rest of the afternoon and early evening wandering around locally, plus going to a great nearby restaurant (pre-researched by my husband) that custom made me a totally yummy vegetable risotto. The weather was so bad that the wind actually broke the umbrella that the hotel had loaned me.
Tomorrow the weather dries out, which is great – I’ve got a four-to-five hour walking (and eating) tour scheduled in the morning (the evening walking tour that I went on last year in Rome was fabulous). In the afternoon I have reservations for the Gustaf Klimpt Atelier des Lumières Exhibition, after which I’ll explore the Marais and have a nice dinner.
Day 15 – Monday, September 24
This morning’s Walking Tour (in English) was great. We met on the Pont-Neuf Bridge (a famous meeting place in lots of spy movies) near the Notre Dame, walked over to the Louvre, then past the Grand and Petite Palaces (with the golden doors), the Musée d'Orsay (where I’m going tomorrow), and finally ending up at the Eiffel Tower. When we were done, I grabbed lunch nearby and then hopped the metro to go across town to the Gustaf Klimt show.
Before we finished the walk, though, we visited (and used) the famous “Paris bathrooms”; they cost 80 cents (€0.80) to get in, with attendants (both men and women, in red coats) that wipe out each stall after each use (see photos). And they accept credit cards!
The Louvre – even from the outside – was overwhelmingly massive and daunting; it would take days and days to really visit (you apparently have to have a plan – and thus a map of all the corridors – otherwise you get lost). We also walked by the glass pyramid; I know that opinions vary, but I thought it was out of context.
We also learned that the Sainte-Chapelle (the Gothic Royal Chapel, located next to the Notre Dame) was fully renovated two years ago – including all the stained glass (fifteen tall stained-glass windows portraying 1,134 different scenes) – and since the clean-up it’s supposed to be amazing. I visited twenty years ago during its (apparently) more grungy days, and it was amazing then. I’m going to visit it again tomorrow.
So I took the metro to the Gustaf Klimt "light show". The subway just makes Paris so accessible – you can jump all over the city super easy and super fast (and cheap). The Gustaf Klimt show was amazing. AMAZING! It’s a huge warehouse with video projected on every wall; people just sit (even on the floor) just soaking it (and the synchronized music) in. There were six different five minute “sets”, each showing some of his paintings merging into one another – hard to explain. The videos just flow from one painting to another; totally multimedia, totally brilliant. It could well be the future of art exhibitions. Plus, his art itself was compelling, especially those of both men and women together; so much passion. The show was a wonderfully combination of 1800’s paintings and the newest in all-embracing 21st century multimedia. Wow!
I then took the metro part way back, and slowly worked my way back to the hotel by wandering around the Marais, grabbing a French Onion Soup and Apple Tart, walking over to the Notre Dame (very pretty in the evening light), and then home.
Speaking of the Notre Dame, I saw the weirdest “scarecrows” in the adjacent flower gardens (see photo). I don’t know the story.
By the way, everyone here has been so nice. If I stop and ask for directions, or need help with the metro – to a person, everyone has been both so helpful and simultaneously pleasant and outgoing. Parisians have a reputation, but all I can say is I like them!
While walking around, though, I came upon the grossest thing I’ve ever seen – a rat poison store, with dead rats hanging in the window (yes, there's a photo below). Just disgusting. Much more pleasant – I also bumped into a beautiful farmer’s market. Amazing fresh fruit.
I feel like my feet are going to fall off.
Day 16 – Tuesday, September 25
Happily, my feet did not fall off overnight. I wandered through the Saint-Germain and the adjacent part of the 7th Arrondissement this morning on the way to and from the Musée d’Orsay. On the way I quickly visited Sainte-Chapelle (which, history has it, was built to house the Crown of Thorns and one of the nails from the Crucifixion; these are now housed in the Notre Dame, and can be seen the first Friday of the each month). The chapel is indeed totally cleaned up and beautiful. The stained glass was dazzling.
Paris is working hard on cleaning itself up in preparation for the 2024 Summer Olympics. The Notre Dame has similarly been nicely refreshed (at least on the outside; I didn’t want to wait in line to go inside). They’re even talking about having the Seine so clean that they’ll be able to hold some (Triathlon-related, I assume) swimming events. Good for them.
The Musée d’Orsay (a converted Beaux-Arts railway station) was very crowded, with long (40 minute) lines just to get in – and that’s for the people like me who already had tickets; even longer for those without tickets. But once in it was great. I was primarily there to see the Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art (it houses one of the most important collections of Impressionist paintings in the world – over 100 pieces), including works by Manet, Monet, Degas, Cézanne, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Renoir, etc. A great way to spend several hours.
After the museum, I walked by a St. Germain restaurant that was packed with locals – a good sign – so I went in, was able to get a seat at the bar, and had a great late lunch: pumpkin soup and salad. I then strolled along the Seine, went up into the Marais to do some serious "high end" window shopping, and eventually ended up at The Marché des Enfants Rouges, which is the oldest indoor market in Paris (founded in 1605), where amongst the many food vendors and stalls (all sorts of different cuisines) I found some lovely fresh basil pesto pasta (hot). I saved €3.00 by getting it as take-out (and tons more by not going to a formal sit-down restaurant in the first place), so I happily ate it while slowly walking back to the hotel (to pack up Big Red).
Tomorrow I fly home. It’s been a wonderful trip. Thank-you art quilting!
